One of the most valuable commodities to the beginner Gamebird Breeder is some basic information to get started. Sadly, this information is most often hard to come by. I want to give some basic information just for beginners who are thinking about gamebirds.

Many times there is no right or wrong way of raising gamebirds. My methods may not work so well for you (but they will work if you will work them). I always encourage the beginner to get some experience and to build a method of raising birds that fits into his or her situation.

Next month I may discuss my Assembly Line Method of raising gamebirds. Complete information about this is in the book Upland Game Birds, Their Breeding and Care.

Listed below are some "starter" ideas for the beginner.

Check the Law

The very first thing a prospective game bird breeder should do is check the law in the state domiciled regardless of the number of birds he or she plans to raise. Most states have laws governing the keeping of native (and some foreign) game birds in captivity. The regulations in each state are different, so be sure and check before ordering eggs, chicks, or stock. I know of some game bird breeders that got into serious trouble and were fined for failing to meet the requirements of the law in their state. Check with your local Fish and Game office to know the laws. You can find your local office in the yellow pages under State Government.

You should also know that some of our gamebirds are regulated by the Federal Government also. This is especially true of our native migratory birds and some other foreign species. The Yellow Pages will give you some help on finding the Federal offices also. Information such as prohibited species, regulated species (endangered and threatened), pen requirements, and license and permit requirements should be examined and adhered to.

All aviculturists should operate within the law. For the sake of the whole fancy, we should not only obey the law ourselves, but encourage others to do the same. When only a few violations occur then broad regulations are imposed on us all.

Some Basic Equipment

To produce game birds there are some items that will be needed such as feeders, waterers, nestboxes, dust boxes, breeding coops, brooders, heating elements, growing pens and some miscellaneous items. Some of the equipment can be homemade. The breeder will need some sort of breeder unit to satisfy the needs of the breeder-birds.

Consider these facts as you plan for your breeder units:

Size: breeder pens for quail can be as small as one foot square. Keeping birds in this small space brings on the threat of feather picking, cannibalism, and spread of disease. We prefer more space for our quail breeders and as a result can expect more egg production. Since most strains of Bobwhite, Coturnix, and Chukar partridge have much of the wildness bred out of them, they do quite well in the smaller cages. I have found that the Ringneck pheasant stock never seems to calm down. However, when you get your breeding stock be sure that you are getting this ?gentle? strain if this is what you want. If the market requires ?wild natured? birds for release, then consideration should be made concerning the size of the breeder pens.

Wire: all wire should be small enough to prevent the birds from getting their heads caught in the openings. The floor wire should be smooth ? inch hardware cloth for quail size birds. Larger wire floors should be used for keeping pheasant size birds off of the ground when climactic conditions make it necessary.

Roofs: there should be a waterproof roof on pens that are kept outside to protect the feed and water from the rain. In hot climates, the birds need shelter from the hot sun also. The dark area under the roof gives security by providing a place for the birds to hide. When we raised Ringneck pheasants in large outside pens, a shelter was placed in one end. They refused to roost in it even on nights that got below zero. At first we were concerned, but then relaxed over the situation and never lost a bird.

Nest and dust boxes: for quail, a good size for the nest box is 6 X 6 inches and about five inches high. The nest box can be open-topped or closed-topped with an entrance. Fill the box with straw. Years ago we used coffee cans for nests quite successfully which proves that the birds are not particular. For pheasants, junglefowl, guineas and turkeys, we have used bales of wheat straw and even garbage cans placed in strategic places. Wooden boxes can easily be made and most of the time the birds will use them with the exception of a few hens that seem to drop their eggs when they get the urge. Dust boxes for small wire bottomed cages can be made from wood or metal. If they are made from metal, be sure they do not have any sharp edges that could cut the feet of the birds when they climb into the box. I like dust boxes to be large enough to hold at least five birds. Place them away from the feed and water to cut down dust contamination.

Indoor V.S. Outdoor Production

The breeder will have to make the decision as to which method he wants to use. His decision will be based upon one or all of the following criteria.

1) The cost that is involved in a particular method of propagation. The cost of pens and other special equipment should be considered. Carefully consider the long range costs, as many times better birds can be produced by spending a little more ?up front.?

2) It would not do to try to brood very young chicks outdoors in a very hot or cold climate. Some sort of compromise will have to be made if this is necessary.

3) Perhaps, the best method would be a combination of both indoor and outdoor propagation. For example, start and brood the chicks inside until they feather out fairly well, then place them outside in a controlled way. Let them get out of the night air and still enjoy the warm sunshine on clear days. Actually, this method will produce much healthier and better feathered birds. An interesting pen was built when I raised grouse which was about 12 by 15 feet. It had a raised one by one inch welded wire bottom. The bottom was about four inches from the ground. I planted rye and other grasses under this wire so when it grew up over four inches the birds could eat it. This gave them greens during the wet winters and kept them off the ground which is a good idea for many species that are susceptible to parasites and diseases. The idea could be used for other species.

About the author:

Thanks to Doctor Hayes for contributing this poultry article to poultryOne.com. You may reach the author at:

Leland B. Hayes, Ph.D.
P.O. Box 1682,
Valley Center, CA 92082
(760) 749-6829 FAX (760) 742-1173

Doctor Hayes publishes a very helpful poultry ezine. You can subscribe to it for free at www.LelandHayes.com

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